[vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]The second Takhat we visited was in the Bihar district. This Takhat was built around 1950 in remembrance of the 10th Guru, Gobind Singh Ji, who spent his childhood years there before moving to Anandpur Sahib. This Takhat is situated in the city of Patna and is called Takht Sri Harmandirji Sahib, or Patna Sahib.
At this Takhat I discovered the real reason for my journey and understood how it had happened that Falcons kept on appearing in my life. The tenth Guru seized a falcon from the Moghul troops on the recommendation of one of his dying soldier and thereby won the war against the Moghuls. This allowed all religions to be worshipped freely. At Patna Sahib I felt a deep connection to Guru Gobind Singh Ji and through divine intervention received a spiritual message to return to complete my Yatra. That would mean visiting all the five Takhats. Not knowing the reason why I had to visit all of them I trusted in my new teacher and guide.
I will return to India and at Patna Sahib I made a promise to Karman that we will complete the pilgrimage together.
I was fortunate to once again travel to India and arrived in Delhi in January 2020, eleven months after my previous visit. After disembarking from the plane, I put my feet firmly down on this sacred ground. At that moment I felt a profound shift happening within me. Karman meets me at the Airport and now I don’t feel nervous to be here, I feel as if I belong here and am totally relaxed. We plan to spend the night at his sister’s home in Delhi, before we catch the bus to Patiala, which is in the Punjab/Panjaab.
I’m welcomed with open arms at his family’s home. As you might have heard before, Sikh people are known for their generosity and kind natures. Everyone is happy to see me again. It is a big privilege for Karman’s family to know that he will be visiting a Takhat in the Rupnagar district of the Indian state of Panjaab. In return I am blessed to be able to have a spiritual travel companion who will complete the pilgrimage with me. Karman’s sister prepares my favourite dish, Palak Paneer, delicious spinach and cheese dish with a butter roti on the side.
The next morning we leave for Patiala. A friendly vegetable seller meets us downstairs, and suddenly I’m feeling the excitement growing deep in my veins. We depart by bus from the Kashmiri gate bus depot in Delhi.
We decided to travel by a normal state bus, which will be about five hours to Patiala.[/vc_column_text][vc_gallery interval=”3″ images=”370,371,372,373″ img_size=”650×650″][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]The time is well used as we have a lot to discuss and plan before we head out to the third Takhat. I’ve forgotten how crazy and busy Delhi was and how hooting is promoted as a way of communication! We stop three hours later for a tea break at a rest stop for buses. Whilst having a coffee I am noticing Sikh men with Turbans, we are now in the Punjab district and this is where I want to be right now. The fields are green and lush.
On our arrival in Patialla we visit the local Gurudwara, Shri Dukhniwaran Sahib, to offer our gratitude prayers. We say thank you firstly that we have arrived safely and secondly that we are privileged to embark on this journey to complete the Sikh Pilgrimage.
We take a stroll around the holy pond and as we look up we see a falcon circling the temple grounds. We smile at each other and know the time has arrived to be guided and taken on the rest of our journey.
During the next few days the challenges start coming. As we set our path to go forces started working against us. We all know that this is how it happens in the spiritual world, when you are on the right track forces will try to prevent you from following your path. Now nature has stepped in and the temperature drops radically and the rain sets in for three days. We are literally stranded in Patiala.
Time does drag but it gives us an opportunity to contact our private taxi driver, to negotiate rates, and make decisions on our method of travelling to not one but two Takhats, which are not very far from each other in Panjaab. At the same time we are waiting onme to receive the message from the tenth Guru as to which of the two Takhats we should visit first. At last the morning arrives and we are packed and ready to go. The long awaited signs pointed us in the direction of Sri Kesgarh Sahib. So we are heading to the town of Anandpur Sahib!
We decided to travel by private taxi, it is easier if you want to stop at historic Gurudwaras on the way. We chose to try and walk in the footsteps of Guru Gobind Singh Ji, and by stopping at prominent Gurudwaras, we learn a lot more about this magnificent and holy saint, warrior and spiritual leader.[/vc_column_text][vc_gallery interval=”3″ images=”374,375,376,377″ img_size=”650×650″][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]The first stop is at Gurudwara Fateh Garth, where Guru Gobind Singh Ji’s sons aged nine and seven years old were bricked alive on 26th December 1704. They were betrayed by their servant Gangu. At the time both the boys were seized by the Mughal army and they were asked to convert to Islam, they refused. By the orders of Wazir Khan, the boys were buried alive. They died in martyrdom. At this Gurudwra I felt the pain and the sadness that Guru Ji must have felt when he heard of his two younger sons’ deaths.
Here I started to appreciate the true essence and bravery of the Sikh people. I garner a deep understanding for what every Sikh warrior and women have endured. The pain and sacrifices these people have made. As we walked around the temple grounds we discuss and sense the sadness that’s still prevails here.
Katal Garth Gurudwara was erected at the place where the cremation of the two older sons of Guru Gobind Singh Ji, and of forty other Sikhs who perished in martyrdom, took place.
After, we continue on our trip to Gurudwara Charan Sahib. Here I discover the most beautiful statue of a falcon, perched on top of the ancient well. In days far gone Guru Gobind Singh took rest here. Here the Guru was housed and protected by two Muslim businessmen, Ghai Khan and Bhai Nabbi Khan. These two men were his followers and disguised him as a Muslim priest. Guru Ji was sad after the news of the deaths of his two younger sons, he had been travelling in harsh conditions and was in a bad state. He took refuge here to regain his physical strength.
The lesson in this all is that the Guru respected all religions and in return he was also highly respected. From time to time his journey was supported by humble Muslim people who were also fighting the fierce Mughal Empire.[/vc_column_text][vc_gallery interval=”3″ images=”378,379,380,381″ img_size=”650×650″][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]The first stop is at Gurudwara Fateh Garth, where Guru Gobind Singh Ji’s sons aged nine and seven years old were bricked alive on 26th December 1704. They were betrayed by their servant Gangu. At the time both the boys were seized by the Monghal army and they were asked to convert to Islam, they refused. By the orders of Wazir Khan, the boys were buried alive. They died in martyrdom. At this Gurudwra I felt the pain and the sadness that Guru Ji, must have felt when he heard of his two younger sons’ deaths.
Here start to appreciate the true essence and bravery of the Sikh people. I garner a deep understanding for what every Sikh warrior and woman has endured. The pain and sacrifices these people have made. As we walked around the temple grounds we discuss and sense the sadness that’s still prevails here.
Katal Garth Gurudwara was erected at the place where the cremation of the two older sons of Guru Gobind Singh Ji, and of forty other Sikhs who perished in martyrdom, took place.
After, we continue on our trip to Gurudwara Charan Sahib. Here I discover the most beautiful statue of a falcon, perched on top of the ancient well. In days far gone Guru Gobind Singh took rest here. Here the Guru was housed and protected by two Muslim businessmen, Ghai Khan and Bhai Nabbi Khan. These two men were his followers and disguised him as a Muslim priest. Guru Ji was sad after the news of the deaths of his two younger sons, he had been travelling in harsh conditions and was in a bad state. He took refuge here to regain his physical strength.
The lesson in this all is that the Guru respected all religionsand in return he was also highly respected. From time to time his journey was supported by humble Muslim people who were also fighting fierce Moghul empire.[/vc_column_text][vc_gallery interval=”3″ images=”382,383,384,385,386″ img_size=”650×650″][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]After the Battle of Bungani was won, Guru Ji returned to Anandpur Sahib and came across a brick works plant. He inquired from two laborers where he could take rest. Instead of helping him, they teased him and pointed him in the direction of the brick ovens. Guru Ji walked towards the excruciating heat of the oven and as he came closer to the ovens the ovens went cold. The two men got a fright and were in a state of shock and ran off and to call the mayor. The mayor, Nihan Khan arrived and took Guru to his fort where he provided food and a resting place for Guru Ji, and all the soldiers. Guru Ji was warmly welcomed.
We arrive at the breathtaking Gurudwara Bhabour Sahib, in Naya Nagal in the Ropar district of Punjab. This beautiful temple overlooks the Sutlej River and is on the top of a hill, high up on the river bank. Guru Ji resided here at the invitation of the king of that time, Raja Ratan Rai. It was here that Guru Ji wrote the holy prayer, the Chaupai Sahib.
I was touched by the breathtaking views of the valley and the lake at the bottom of the valley. These views must have inspired Guru Gobind Singh Ji to write the most beautiful poetry. Being in the presence of this holy shrine I sense the Guru’s gentle energy.
I imagine Guru Ji overlooking this landscape and being inspired by the beauty of the Almighty’s Creations. This vista may have inspired him to write the Chaupai Sahib which is part of the five morning prayers that Sikhs recite daily even to this day. I feel his presence whilst overlooking the riverbank and say to Karman that I will return here one day to take refuge.
We cross the river via a bridge where it clearly states no photos to be taken. We are heading to the Gurudwara Ghaat Sahib on the opposite river bank. This Gurudwara is situated on the left side of the Satluj River.[/vc_column_text][vc_gallery interval=”3″ images=”387,388,389,390″ img_size=”650×650″][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]As Guru Ji travelled from Patna Sahib, in Bihar, he had to cross the river at this point to reach Anandpur Sahib. Many boatmen were waiting for him, every single one wanting the honour to take him across the river. They had decorated their boats to impress him. When he arrived and started talking with them their individual boasting of ownership of the boats did not impress him. He walked over to a simple man called Ruskin, who had not decorated his boat. When Guru asked him about the ownership of the vessel he answered that the boat belongs to Guru Ji and is there to serve him. Guru Gobind Singh Ji sat in his boat to cross the river. When Guru Ji offered Ruskin five rupees in return for the trip. Ruskin refused and humbly replied that it is his job to help people to cross the river as it is Gurus’ job to help people cross the world. Guru Gobind Singh was touched by his reply and decided to bless Ruskin, saying that he blessed him and the twenty one generations to still be born from him.
We walked down the stairs to enjoy the views and wash our hands and faces in the water. When I put my hand into the water I could feel a beautiful energy surge through me. I realized this dam is filled by water running directly from the Himalayan springs high up in the mountain. This is holy water as it carried Guru Ji across it. We sat down for a while on the steps and let our eyes drink deeply from the natural beauty surrounding us.
The sun was setting and a cold breeze started to rise from the water. We decided to head to our hotel and take rest after a long day on the road.
Our next stop will be the town of Anandpur Sahib, Punjab where Takhat Sri Kesgarh Sahib is situated.[/vc_column_text][vc_gallery interval=”3″ images=”391,392,393,394,395″ img_size=”650×650″][/vc_column][/vc_row]