[vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]Historic Gurudwars in the surrounding areas close to Anandpur Sahib, in the Rupnagar district of Punjab, January 2020
I am Lila Weaver and this is my story of a pilgrimage to India. My previous blog tells of
our day travel and visiting various Gurudwaras on the was to the City of Anandur Sahib, and of our arrival at the Temple View Hotel at dusk.[/vc_column_text][vc_gallery interval=”3″ images=”453,454,455,456,457″ img_size=”650×650″][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]I wake up in a peaceful and quiet Anandpur Sahib. Most cities in India are noisy and full of bustle so this is a true gift of serenity. I rise early, shower and walk into a misty and cold morning. I decide to attend morning Kirtan at a relatively smaller Gurudwara which is right across from the Temple View Hotel. This is the Sis Ganj Sahib. The complex also houses a smaller Gurudwara, The Akal Bunga Sahib.[/vc_column_text][vc_gallery interval=”3″ images=”458,459,460″ img_size=”650×650″][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]A gathering of cows next to the city plain awaits me as I cross the road to Sis Ganj Sahib.
As I enter the complex I bow down to touch the marble step and leave my shoes at the entrance. The water in the foot bath is freezing cold, and I need to watch my steps on the ice-cold and slippery marble. I walk over to the flag pole and as I get closer I feel a growing connection to Sis Ganj Sahib. Here I notice two falcons inserted in the marble of the platform where the Sikh flagpole is fitted. This platform and the tall pole with the saffron coloured flag tend to be seen near the entrances of Gurdwaras and overlook the building. The appearance of the two falcons is another confirmation for me that this is where I need to be.
During 1675 the ninth Guru, Guru Teg Bahadur Sahib Ji travelled to meet Aurangzeb, the Mughal emperor in Delhi. He was well aware of the dangers facing his nation, and was aware that he would had to sacrifice his life and offer his head if it came to it. Guru Ji made sure that on the way he visited various highly devoted Sikhs to strengthen them on the path of Dharma and took his time to arrive in Delhi. The Emperor offered a cordial welcome to Guru, as he was intending to make him the spiritual head, the Highest Pir of Muslim India. In addition if Guru Ji desired power he would also make him the Governor of Punjab.
Guru Ji was not to be swayed and told the Emperor that he felt it was unholy to force people to accept a faith or religion that was not their choice. Guru Ji calmly told him that is was not the role of a human to give spiritual leadership to another human. This was in God’s hands only. Aurangzeb realized Guru Ji was firm in his beliefs and tortured him to attempt to bend him to his will. Four other Sikhs that were accompanying Guru Ji were kept in seperate dungeons and tortured to death. None of them repented or agreed to follow Islam. Guru Ji was tortured by this Moghul ruler, but still Guru Ji did not sway. Aurangzeb lost his temper with Guru Ji regarding a comment that his kingdom was to be overthrown and beheaded Guru Ji, on 24 November 1675 in front of a massive crowd at Chandni Chowk in Delhi. It is said that the earth started trembling and was shaken by forceful earthquakes at the time of his death.
There was also a sudden heavy dust storm and taking advantage of it a brave warrior, Bhai Jaita, re-named Bhai Jiwan Singh fled with the severed head of Guru Ji and brought it to Anandpur Sahib. On the way to Anandpur Sahib he was followed by Mughal soldiers and he reached his house in Punjab where his father ordered him to behead him, bury his body under the house and give his head to the soldiers as Guru Ji’s head. Bhai Jiwan Singh followed his father’s order and beheaded him and then proceeded with Guru Ji’s head to Anandpur Sahib. Here at Sis Ganj Sahib, Guru Ji’s head was cremated. Bhai Lakhi Shah Banjara and his son Bhai Naghaiya fled with Guru Ji’s headless body towards his home in Raisina Village in Delhi itself. He was followed by the Moghul soldiers so to avoid Guru Ji’s body landing in their hands he put the body in his hut and set the hut on fire. Today there stands Gurudwara Rakab Ganj Sahib. The place in Delhi where Guru Ji was beheaded is also called Sis Ganj Sahib, about which I shared in my earlier blog.
During my stay in Anandpur Sahib, I continued to attend morning Kirtan here. When a falcon appears and is circling overhead I have learnt to slow down and receive the messages and guidance from Guru Ji. Trust my spirit guide. By now I trust the journey and am present with full attention and awareness when the falcon shows his presence. I feel my heart chakra open and the great love Guru Ji projects to me through the falcon. What a wonderful winged tour guide I have with me all the way, step by step. By now, I can now sense when a falcon is near, without physically seeing one. On my way back from the Gurudwara I notice one right above Sis Ganj Sahib from my balcony.[/vc_column_text][vc_gallery interval=”3″ images=”462,463″ img_size=”650×650″][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]Back at the hotel we enjoy a lovely freshly prepared breakfast of homemade yoghurt, paranthas and veggie sandwiches. We then set out to visit Gurudwaras in the surrounding areas. It is yet another beautiful winters day and we pass through beautiful landscapes and alongside clean waterways.
We take a turn to the left from the main road and a beautiful building pops up out of nowhere. It is The Suhela Ghora Sahib. We leave our shoes in the car and proceed to the Gurudwara. It’ s cold and misty and my feet are freezing. We have to be very careful not to slip with our wet feet on the marble. As we take a step onto the marble veranda surrounding the building I notice a big wooden horse to my right. I decide to take refuge and enter the Gurudawara first, before inspecting the horse.
As we enter the Gurudwara, a deep love fills me and I feel my heart chakra exploding. Love is bubbling out of me, I’m surrounded by love. Who-ever loved this horse must have loved him deeply. I take refuge here for a long while. A bit later I feel my energies stabelize. Only then I am able to bring myself back from this beautiful warm loving feeling. I am ready to leave this deep meditative state and become aware of my surroundings. I feel my heart chakra expanded whilst love literally streaming into me and out of me. I bow to the Holy Granth and get up.
I walk over to the picture on the wall and realize this Gurudwara was built for the horse named Suhela. Karman takes me to one side and while reading the information board he explains, Suhela Ghora(Horse) was one of the horse’s of the sixth Guru, Guru Har Gobind Singh Sahib. Suhela was wounded in a battle and to assit in his recovery Guru Har Gobind stayed at Nawashahar for at least one month as Suhela was undergoing treatment. Later Guru Har Gobind decided to travel from Nawashahar to Kiratpur Sahib and when they reached this place Suhela passed on and left for his heavenly abode.
During the battle Suhela Ghora was wounded by 600 bullets and when he was cremated, nearly 125 kg of cast metal was found in the body. Guru Har Gobind himself performed ardas, the last rites and cremated Suhela Ghora here. This story brought tears to my eyes and I realized that this brave horse loved his master so much that be fought till the bitter end. His body wounded, he carried an additional 125kg of metal with him but he kept fighting with his Guru for a bigger cause.
Lila’s Message : This story made me realize that sometimes we carry cast metal in our minds, in the form of negative thoughts to such an extent that we sink ourselves with the negativity and stay in battle despite our baggage. Sometimes we need to step back, take rest and purify our minds and souls otherwise we will perish or burn out. The body carries unseen weight and by cleaning the mind we can cleanse ourselves.
We take a long drive up into the mountains surrounded by spectacular greenery. India really is a beautiful country. We reach Sehra Sahib, this is the Gurudwara where Guru Gobind Singh Ji, the tenth Guru, met the family of his bride before proceeding one kilometre to the next Gurudwara where he was to be married. Guru Ji donned his sehra or bridegroom’s floral headband here.[/vc_column_text][vc_gallery interval=”3″ images=”464,465,466″ img_size=”650×650″][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]After visiting this quaint gurudwara we proceed towards Guru Ka Lahore, the Gurudwara where Guru Ji was married, to find it at the end of a dusty road. A white wall on the left-hand side of the road leads us to the foot of the white steps which tower up towards this majestic Gurudwara.
During that time Guru Ji’s wedding was repeatedly postponed. The elders advised Guru Ji to not go to Lahore for the marriage ceremmony as people in Lahore were against Guru’s teachings and they had been hostile to the Gurus before him.
The young Guru agreed but suggested that they should create a ‘Lahore‘ here. The bride’s family may come and reside here and the marriage could take place. Consequently a temporary camp was set up near Basantgarh to look like part of Lahore. The site was called Guru Ka Lahore.
Bhai Hari Jas, Guru Ji’s to be Father in Law, brought his family and relations to the temporary ‘Lahore‘ and the marriage took place on 21st June 1677. After the camp was closed this place was considered holy and a Gurdwara was established there. A further two Gurudwaras were later constructed close to the nearby springs.
Unfortunately there were renovations being undertaken when we visited and we could not spend quiet time or connect with the gurudwara so we proceeded to a nearby Gurudwara called Gurdwara Paur Sahib. This was just a small room with a dome and a veranda leading onto a grass patch.
There was a small well point which was said to have been created by the Guru’s horse stamping its front hoof. Water then started to well up out of the ground. Up until now it continues to be a wellpoint. We all drank from the well and enjoyed quiet time there[/vc_column_text][vc_gallery interval=”3″ images=”467,468,469,470,471″ img_size=”650×650″][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]Back in the car, we decide to do one more stop for the day and proceed down the hill to a Gurudwara in the Kiratpur district.
Our last stop for the day was to be Gurdwara Patal Puri. This breathtakingly beautiful building was built on the banks of the river Sutlej. This is the place where all Sikhs take the ashes of their passed loved ones. The remains are immersed in the river here.
Three of the Gurus, Guru Hargobind in 1644, Guru Har Rai in 1661 and Guru Harkrishan in 1664 had their ashes immersed here.
The grounds hold a holy pond which we walked past on the way to the footbridge which crosses the river. The devotees cross this bridge with the remains of their loved ones folded in a white cloth and gently release it into the river. While we were standing on the bridge there were male servers cleaning the steps of the bank of the river. Due to respect for this burial site I did not take further photos.[/vc_column_text][vc_gallery interval=”3″ images=”472,473,474″ img_size=”650×650″][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]The energy that hangs over the bridge is very solemn and sad. We lingered for a while but decided to leave the souls to rest. We decided to depart from this peaceful and tranquil place but first we said a loving prayer.
This was indeed a fulfilling and interesting day. I have learned so much. We head back to Anandpur Sahib.
Tomorrow we will be visiting three more sites which have very interesting histories and magical stories, which I will post after I’ve completed the posts relating to the Sikh pilgrimage.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row]