[vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]I m Lila Weaver, and this is the story of my pligrimage to India. In the last blog we visited the historic Gurudwaras in the Sri Anandpur Sahib area, after we visited the Takhat Sri Kesgarh Sahib.
Since the start of this journey I had told Karman that I knew I would gain massively from visiting this specific Takhat, or throne. The name Damdama means breath relaxed or peaceful breathing. My view is that a person can only really breath peacefully after a goal has been achieved or after an obstacle has been overcome.
After the Battle of Muktsar, the 10th Guru, Guru Gobind Singh and his warriors took rest in this town. Guru Ji spent fifteen months here and this is where he completed the Holy Book or Sri Granth Sahib. Bhai Manni was writing down the messages which Guru Ji channelled directly from God.
Behind the Takhat is an underground meditation room, this is where Guru Ji sat with Bhai Manni to write. Stairs lead down to this sacred room where followers can still meditate. I am following in the footsteps of so many and many others will follow after I leave.[/vc_column_text][vc_gallery interval=”3″ images=”478″ img_size=”650×650″][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]Having travelled by bus to Bathinda City we still needed to travel an additional thirty kilometres from Batthinda to Talwani Sabo. This we did in a Tuk Tuk which is a chilly ride in these cold winds. We are relieved to finally arrive under a beautiful arch.
We check into our hostel and see that our rooms walk out onto beautiful balconies. We smile and are pleased to have a breathtaking view of the Takhat and the surrounding Gurudwaras. We were welcomed by a helpful gentleman at reception who generously booked me into a family room with the biggest bed I’ve ever seen albeit with a very thin mattress. When you travel in India you have to get used to the dichotomy between beauty and hardship. This of no real concern as I soon sense a lovely peaceful energy and I settle into it. I am oblivious to the clunks and clatter of the building works taking place in the hotel.
After settling in we head to the Takhat to show our attendance and to do our prayer of gratitude. We decide to walk around the main complex and familiarise ourselves with the various buildings. We grow hungry and we head off to the Langar hall to enjoy a healthy meal and a milk drink lightly spiced with herbs and sugar which is refreshing and very tasty.[/vc_column_text][vc_gallery interval=”3″ images=”479,480,481,482″ img_size=”650×650″][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]Over the next few days I spend my morning meditations in the Sri Damdama Sahib which is a tiny Gurudwara where the priests are busy performing an uninterrupted three day prayer.
The Granthi, the person who reads and recites the holy hymns from the Granth, is relieved from their duties every two hours. The swap happens so smoothly that when deep in meditation one does not notice the change until you open your eyes. This is where I develop a deep connection to Guru and one morning the Granthi who was waving the Chawar gestured that I should take over from him. I was in awe, I got up without hesitation and walked over and picked up the beautiful silver Chawar. I slowly lifted it over the head of the Granthi as I was standing behind him. For however long the morning Kirtan took I stood there waving the Chawar as the Granthi continued reading the final pages of his session. The Chawar was getting quite heavy, or was I imagining it? I was focussing so hard to ensure that this holy task was performed correctly that my whole body started trembling.
At the end of the prayer I placed the Chawar back on its seat and sat down, still trembling. I felt tears pouring down my cheeks and my body started shaking and this was visible to both the Granthies. I just sat there and shook and felt the heavy energies being pulled from my body. It felt as if a sword was pulled from my back. I sat there patiently listening to the hymns being sung until I felt my body was calming down. The tears still rolling down my cheeks, I got up slowly and walked to the door turning to bow to the holy book. One Granthi came outside and caringly asked me if I was ok. I nodded, smiled and bowed to him in gratitude.
I needed to replenish my energy and started walking into the direction off the Langar hall, where I know I will find Karman. This was my third very powerful experience during the Yatra, or pilgrimage. It had shook me and I knew why. For years I’ve been batting with the release of negative energies. This process in itself is a story. I am grateful and yet humbled by the power of the words in the Sri Grath Sahib. This was indeed a very powerful cleansing. I felt free and light. Something I was carrying for many years had left me. I am excited to see Karman and share this fascinating experience with him.
We sit down together to enjoy a lovely Langar meal. He could see I am rattled so told me to eat first and recoup my strength then we will discuss my experience.[/vc_column_text][vc_gallery interval=”3″ images=”483,484,485,486″ img_size=”650×650″][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]We then decide to visit some of the other Gurudwaras. We walk to the right of the Takhat Damdama and find Gurudwara Mata Sahib Kaur and Mata Sunder Kaur Sahib, which is dedicated to Guru Ji’s two wives. Guru came to a Sangat or gathering of the Sikh people in Talwani Sabo. On his return from Delhi, Guru met with Mata Sahib Kaur and Mata Sunder Kaur. They could see he was not with his two younger sons. They questioned him as to where the two boys were. Guru replied by saying they had perished during the time when the family were seperated near Anandpur Sahib.
He continued by saying that we should not be sad even though we have lost our sons we have gained all these men as our sons and pointed at the crowds of followers and warriors. The ladies were disturbed and heartbroken but took refuge in his comforting words.
Karman decide to hail a ricksaw to take us to some of the other prominent sites in the area. One is the private home of Baba Dala Singh, the mayor of the town.
Guru took rest at this location and his Turban (head covering), Kurta (a long-sleeved, hip-length shirt worn by men in India ) and weaponry are still on display at this private home. A very valuable document is also kept here. This document declares the recognition of the other four Takhats. This document contains a stamp called the Kalsa stamp. Today this stamp is kept at the Takhat on display.
During the visit of Guru to the home of Baba Dala Singh, Baba Dala boasted about the bravery of his troops believing that they would be an asset to Guru Ji’s army.[/vc_column_text][vc_gallery interval=”3″ images=”487,488,489″ img_size=”650×650″][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]observe the old buildings of the town and the friendly people contained therein. We decide to stop off for my first fresh coconut water drink.
We soon reach the Gurudwara Sri Mahalsar Sahib which is constructed on a flat plateau. It was here that Guru Ji divided his warriors into two groups so they could practice and train against each other. Horse riding and sword fighting were the two main attributes of a warrior during that time. Fitness and fighting techniques had to be acquired here.
The next stop is the Gurudwara Yandar Sahib. Here Guru tied his horse to a Yand tree and used treasures to pay the warriors for their hard work and dedication.
After that we walked to Gurudwara Sri Likshar Sahib. It is here that, Bhai Mani Ji did sewa of writing the saroop of Guru Granth Sahib Ji in his own hand under the blessings of Guru Gobind Singh Ji. The wooden pens used for this purpose were then discarded into a pond. Bhai Manni Ji also wrote Gian Ratnavali, an account of Guru Nanak Dev Ji’s life. Bhai Manni Ji was brought up in the pressence of Guru Tegh Bahadur during his early life and was a chilhood friend of Guru Gobind Singh Ji.
Today pilgrims still frequent the place and sit down to write the Punjabi alphabet in the sand or on a black board. It is believed that whoever spends time here and sits quietly to write out the alphabet will be blessed with a good education and a clever mind and that from this place many wise people will be born. Many writers, poets and blog writers like myself took up the chalk here to write the English alphabet instead of the Punjabi Alphabet. Hopefully during my next visit I will be able to write the alphabet in Punjabi.
We visit the last Gurudwara in the complex which completes the story of Baba Dala Singh whose house we visited earlier. The mayor had challenged Guru JI regarding the bravery of his warriors. A gun had been gifted to Guru Ji. Guru and he decided he wanted to test the gun. As he was listening to Baba Dala’s boasts about his brave soldiers he thought this would be a good opportunity to take up his challenge and see whose soldiers were the bravest. Guru asked him to bring his bravest soldiers for the test as Guru Ji will test the gun on them. No soldiers volunteered and Baba Dala Singh was humbled and apologised.
Guru then called upon his own soldiers and two men argued over the honour of volunteering first. They were a father and son, Bir Singh and Dir Singh. They both came to the front and offered to be the target. Guru respected the fact that they were so selfless and brave and did not test the gun on them. Instead a temple was built in remembrance of these two brave men. Baba Dala Singh had to admit that his soldiers could not compare in bravery with the troops of Guru Gobind Singh. We leave from here and head back to a warm Langar meal and evening prayers in the Takhat.[/vc_column_text][vc_gallery interval=”3″ images=”490,491,492,493″ img_size=”650×650″][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]After our visit we decide to travel further with the ricksaw and as we meander we can
I continue to go to the early morning meditations and prayers in either the Damdama Sahib or in the small private room where Guru channelled part of the Holy Granth.
In the evenings the Gurudwaras are lit by soft colourful lighting that turns these buildings into majestic edifices highlighted by the lighting displays. During the time we were here we made friends with many of the men performing Seva as guards, Granthis, cleaners or guides. They were all eager to give us information regarding the history of each Gurudwara. Humble and friendly every one of them offered assistance. This was very heartening and deepened my understanding of why people do Sewa or community service. The joy and the rewards that serving brings to Sikhs underpin their belief system.[/vc_column_text][vc_gallery interval=”3″ images=”494,495,496″ img_size=”650×650″][/vc_column][/vc_row][vc_row][vc_column][vc_column_text]On the last morning we strolled around the town and came across a tiny Gurudwara that had no name but had a familiar feeling to it as it resembled the Sri Harmandir Sahib, The Golden temple in Amritsar as it was surrounded by a big Holy tank and a bridge leading to the Gurudwara. This Gurudwara id dedicated to the 9th Gutu, Guru Tegh Behadur Ji.
Later that day we leave Talwani Sabo by bus. I feel sad as I was not ready to leave. Three days was too little. The feeling of being here before had made me feel as if it was home. It had been the most enjoyable stay.
Now we will travel to Delhi by bus from where we will catch a flight to Nanded in the South of India in the Maharasthra state. I love the bus trips in India as there is always something happening. At every stop a food vendor will get on to the bus to either sell fresh coconut or a crunchy Dahl called Bhel Puri. To our surprise the bus driver stops in the middle of the highway to feed monkeys. There is never a boring moment in India!
The bus stops are very busy and the trip takes us quite a while to reach Delhi’s Kashmiri gate which is the main bus terminal. We are excited to share all the happenings with the family in Delhi, do our washing and get ready for the flight to Nanded.[/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row]